Guide to Facet Rough Clarity Grades: VVS, VS, SI, Eye Clean & Loupe Clean

Knowing your clarity grades before you buy protects your wallet, maximises your yield, and takes the guesswork out of picking rough for any project. This guide breaks down every grade in plain language — with real-world cutting examples — so you can shop with your eyes open.

This guide explains every grade in plain language, with real-world examples so you can shop our full collection of rough gemstones with complete confidence.

1. What is clarity in facet rough gemstones?

Clarity refers to the internal visual characteristics of a gemstone — specifically the presence, type, size, and position of inclusions (internal features) and blemishes (surface features). In finished, cut stones, gemological laboratories use standardised grading systems. In the world of facet rough, grading is more practical and trade-based, but no less important.

Inclusions in rough gemstones take many forms:

• Needles — thin, elongated mineral crystals running through the stone
• Feathers — small fractures or cleavage planes that resemble the barbs of a feather
• Clouds — clusters of microscopic inclusions that create a hazy zone
• Crystals — mineral crystals of a different species trapped inside the host stone
• Growth tubes — hollow channels formed during crystal growth
• Colour zoning — uneven distribution of colour, common in sapphires and tourmalines

When a dealer lists a piece of faceting rough as VVS, VS, SI, or eye clean, they are telling you how much of the rough is affected by these features, and how difficult those inclusions will make the cutting process.

2. Why clarity grading matters more for rough than cut stones

Here is something most buyers do not realise: clarity is more critical in rough material than in finished stones. Here is why.

When you are looking at a polished, faceted gem, the cutter has already made decisions for you. They have oriented the stone to minimise visible inclusions, positioned feathers away from the table facet, and used the girdle angle to hide problem zones. The clarity you see is the best possible result from that particular piece of rough.

When you are buying rough, you are buying the potential — not the result. A heavily included piece of rough will severely restrict your orientation options. You may be forced to cut a much smaller stone to avoid the feather, or to accept a window where a cloud sits. That directly reduces your yield — the weight and size of the finished stone you recover from the rough.

Understanding clarity grades before you buy is the single most effective way to protect your investment when purchasing rough gemstones.

3. VVS — Very Very Slightly Included

VVS is the highest clarity grade routinely assigned to commercial facet rough. A VVS stone contains inclusions that are extremely difficult to see even under 10x loupe magnification, and completely invisible to the naked eye.

Characteristics of VVS facet rough:

• Inclusions are pinpoint-sized or extremely fine needles confined to a small area
• No feathers, fractures, or cleavage planes of any significant size
• Colour is evenly distributed or shows only very minor zoning far from the anticipated table position
• The stone is effectively transparent with no haze or cloudiness
• Under 10x magnification, inclusions require deliberate searching to find

VVS rough is what you want when cutting fine aquamarine, premium garnets, or any stone where you need maximum flexibility in orientation. Because the cutter can place the table facet almost anywhere, VVS rough gives the highest possible yield ratio.

Who should buy VVS? Experienced cutters creating finished gems for jewellery, dealers building a fine gem inventory, and anyone cutting precious stones like emeralds or sapphires and rubies where the end value of the cut stone justifies the premium rough price.

4. VS — Very Slightly Included

VS is the most popular clarity grade among working gem cutters, and for good reason. VS rough strikes the best balance between quality and price. Inclusions are minor — visible under 10x magnification but still very small — and the stone can typically be oriented to produce a clean finished gem.

Characteristics of VS facet rough:

• Inclusions are visible under 10x loupe but are small and relatively few
• May contain fine needles, small crystals, or minor feathers — but not through the primary cutting zone
• No large fractures or cleavage planes that threaten cutting integrity
• Eye clean or very nearly so when held at arm's length in good light
• Offers good orientation options — the cutter can usually avoid inclusions

VS-grade material is an excellent choice for apatite, amethyst, citrine, and most semi-precious stones. It is the grade most dealers mean when they say "good quality" rough without specifying further.

Who should buy VS? Most cutters, most of the time. VS is the sweet spot — it produces clean finished stones in the majority of cases without requiring you to pay the VVS premium.

5. SI — Slightly Included

SI rough contains inclusions that are noticeable under 10x magnification and may or may not be visible to the naked eye depending on the type and position of the inclusion. This grade requires the most skill to cut well, but it also comes at significantly lower prices per carat.

Characteristics of SI facet rough:

• Inclusions are clearly visible under loupe with minimal searching
• May include notable feathers, clouds, colour banding, or crystal inclusions
• Orientation options are limited — the cutter must plan carefully around inclusions
• Some SI material may be eye clean in the final cut stone if oriented correctly
• Higher risk of fracture during cutting if feathers are present near the girdle zone
• Yield is lower — expect to recover a smaller finished stone relative to rough weight

SI material is not necessarily bad. For species like emeralds — which are naturally heavily included — SI can actually represent perfectly acceptable quality for the species. It is also ideal for beginner cutters practising their technique, or for lapidary artists who plan to cut cabochons rather than faceted stones. Browse our lapidary rough collection for SI and cabochon-grade material.

Who should buy SI? Beginners learning to facet, cutters working with naturally included species (emerald, tourmaline from certain origins), and anyone needing budget material for practice or cabochon work.

6. Eye Clean — what this term actually means

"Eye clean" is a practical descriptor rather than a formal grade. A piece of rough described as eye clean contains inclusions that cannot be seen without magnification — they disappear completely when you examine the stone with your naked eye at normal viewing distance (approximately 25–30 cm).

This is an important distinction: eye clean rough can still show inclusions under a loupe. The key point is that those inclusions will not affect the appearance of the finished faceted stone when worn or displayed.

Eye clean rough typically falls in the VS to lower-VVS range. Many dealers use it interchangeably with VS, though technically eye clean is about visibility rather than size or quantity of inclusions. You will see eye clean listed on stones like chrome diopside, aquamarine, and apatite rough.

Who should look for eye clean? Anyone cutting gems for jewellery purposes where the end appearance is what matters. If the finished stone looks clean, the buyer will be happy — regardless of what a loupe would reveal.

7. Loupe Clean — the premium tier

Loupe clean is the top tier of clarity grading in facet rough. A loupe-clean stone has no visible inclusions even under 10x magnification — the material appears completely flawless at standard gemological examination magnification.

Characteristics:

• Zero inclusions visible at 10x magnification under ideal lighting
• Completely transparent and internally clear throughout
• Maximum orientation freedom — the cutter can place the stone in any position
• Highest yield ratio: almost all of the rough weight converts to finished gem weight
• Commands the highest price per carat of any clarity grade

Loupe clean rough is rare for many gemstone species. For some stones — like alexandrite, fine ruby, or Colombian emerald — truly loupe-clean rough is exceptionally rare and commands extraordinary prices. For species like amethyst or citrine, loupe clean rough is more common and more affordable.

Who should buy loupe clean? Advanced cutters creating collector-quality pieces, jewellers working with precious stones for high-value settings, and anyone cutting gems where the maximum possible clarity grade of the finished stone is the goal.

8. Quick comparison table — all clarity grades at a glance

9. Which clarity grade to buy for each gemstone type

Not all gemstone species are graded against the same standard. A gemologist looks at ruby through very different eyes than amethyst. Here is how clarity grade expectations shift across the most popular faceting species:

Naturally included species — lower grades are normal

Some gemstones naturally form with heavy inclusions due to their crystal growth conditions. For these species, SI or even heavily included material can represent perfectly good rough:

• Emerald — emeralds are famous for their "jardin" (garden of inclusions). VS is considered excellent. Eye clean emerald rough is genuinely rare and expensive.
• Rubies — fine rubies above VS clarity are extremely rare. SI ruby can still cut beautiful stones. Browse our corundum collection.
• Alexandrite — natural alexandrite is almost always included. Eye clean alexandrite rough commands extraordinary prices.

Typically clean species — target VS or better

These gemstones naturally form with fewer inclusions, so buyers and cutters expect higher clarity:

• Aquamarine — generally eye clean or better. SI aquamarine is considered low quality.
• Amethyst & Citrine — quartz family stones are often VVS or loupe clean. You should not accept SI amethyst unless buying specifically for practice.
• Apatite — fine faceting apatite should be VS or eye clean minimum.
• Garnet — depends heavily on species. Spessartine can run clean; demantoid typically has characteristic horsetail inclusions and is still highly valued.
• Chrome Diopside — ideally eye clean or VS. Dark colour in this species can mask inclusions.

Variable species — know what you're buying

• Tourmaline — varies wildly by origin and colour. Some Afghani material runs clean; Brazilian Paraíba can be heavily included. Always check clarity descriptions carefully.
• Sapphire — blue sapphires from Ceylon and Kashmir origins run cleaner than Thai or Australian. VS is the standard expectation for fine sapphire.

10. How clarity grades affect price per carat

Clarity grade is one of the primary drivers of facet rough price per carat. The relationship is not linear — it is exponential at the top end, especially for precious stones.

As a general guide for commercially available wholesale facet rough:

The multipliers above apply within a species at the same size and colour. A loupe-clean emerald rough, for example, does not just cost 10× an SI emerald — it may cost 100× or more, because eye-clean emerald rough is so rare in the first place.

11. How to check clarity in facet rough yourself before buying

Whether you are shopping online or in person, here is how professional gem cutters evaluate rough clarity before committing to a purchase:

Tools you need

• 10x loupe — the standard gemological magnification. A good triplet loupe is essential.
• Strong directional light — a fibre optic or LED penlight. Hold it against the side of the stone (oblique illumination) to reveal inclusions that trans-illumination misses.
• Diffused overhead light — for checking colour zoning and cloudiness.

The 4-position check

When you examine a piece of facet rough, move through these four positions systematically:

1. Transmitted light (backlit) — hold the stone in front of a light source. This reveals the overall transparency and any large fractures or colour zones.
2. Oblique/side-lit — light enters from the side. This is the most powerful technique for revealing fine needles, feathers, and growth tubes that transmitted light misses.
3. Reflected light (dark field) — hold the stone against a dark background with light coming over your shoulder. Surface blemishes, fractures reaching the surface, and near-surface inclusions are most visible here.
4. Naked eye at arm's length — final check: is it eye clean? Set the loupe down and just look.

Online buying tips for facet rough

When buying facet rough online, clarity claims matter enormously. At Gemstone Insider, we describe clarity grades honestly on every listing — but here is what you should look for from any supplier:

• Multiple photos from different angles, including back-lit images
• Close-up macro shots showing the interior of the stone
• Explicit clarity grade terminology (VVS, VS, SI, eye clean) — not vague terms like "nice quality"
• Video or loupe footage where available
• A clear returns policy if the stone does not match the description

12. Frequently asked questions about facet rough clarity grades

Final thoughts: clarity grades are your most important buying decision

Of all the factors that determine whether a piece of facet rough will produce a beautiful finished gem, clarity grade is the one that is hardest to fix. You cannot improve the inclusions once the stone is in your hands. Colour can sometimes be enhanced by orientation. Size can be worked around. But a feather running through the heart of a stone limits you from the moment you pick it up.

Knowing the difference between VVS, VS, SI, eye clean, and loupe clean — and knowing which grade is right for the species you are cutting — is what separates experienced gem cutters from frustrated beginners. Use this guide every time you are evaluating rough gemstones for purchase, and your yield, your results, and your enjoyment of the craft will all improve.

Explore our curated range of honestly graded facet rough — from aquamarine and garnet to rare clinohumite and alexandrite — in our faceting rough collection.